Cosa vide J.
W. Goethe durante la sua pernanenza a Roma Una
lista di link ai monumenti di Roma citati da J. W. Goethe nel suo Italienische Reise.
The first column is usually the day Goethe visited the monument: in
some cases it is the heading of a short script included in the
book.
The second column has the link to the page where the monument is
shown.
The third column is used at times for notes and at times for
quotations (from the translation by W. H. Auden and E. Mayer - Collins
1962).
Primo Soggiorno (November 1786 - February 1787)
| Data |
Luogo |
Note o citazioni |
| 1 Novembre 1786 |
Porta del
Popolo |
Goethe arrived in Rome through it. |
| 3 Novembre |
Palazzo del
Quirinale |
"The square in front of the palazzo, though irregular in
shape, is both grand and graceful. There I sat eyes on the two
Colossi. To grasp them is beyond the power of the eye or the
mind." |
| 7 Novembre |
Palazzo del
Belvedere |
Visita alla Loggia di Raffaello. Goethe went several times to the
Sixtine Chapel during both his stays. |
| 8 Novembre |
Palazzo
Rondanini |
Goethe lived in front of this palace. |
| 9 Novembre |
Piazza della
Rotonda (Pantheon)
Basilica di S.
Pietro |
"The Pantheon, so great within and without, has overwhelmed
me with admiration. St Peter's has made me realize that Art, like
Nature, can abolish all standards of measurement." |
| 10 Novembre, 1786 |
Piramide di Caio Cestio
Rovine del Palatino |
"..the ruins of the imperial palaces stand like rocks. It is
impossible to convey a proper idea of such things." |
| 11 Novembre |
Ninfa Egeria
e Circo di Caracalla
Tomba di Cecilia
Metella
Via
Appia Antica
Piazza del Colosseo
|
"..the tomb of Metella made me realize for the first time
what solid masonry means. ..we came to the Colosseum at twilight.
Once one has seen it, everything else seems small. It is so huge
that the mind cannot retain its image; one remembers it as smaller
than it is, so that every time one returns to it, one is astounded
by its size. |
| 17 Novembre |
S. Andrea
della Valle
Palazzo
Farnese |
- |
| 18 Novembre |
Farnesina
S. Pietro in Montorio
Domus Aurea |
- |
| 22 Novembre |
Piazza S. Pietro
Basilica di S. Pietro
S. Cecilia |
Salia alla Cupola di S. Pietro. |
| 28 Novembre |
Villa Doria Pamphilj |
Goethe went there after a second visit to Raphael's Loggia. |
| 29 Novembre |
Villa Mellini
Villa Madama |
- |
| 25 Dicembre |
Basilica di S. Pietro |
Goethe attended mass in St Peter's |
| 6 Gennaio 1787 |
Palazzo di Propaganda Fide |
- |
| 17 Gennaio |
Palazzo Giustiniani |
- |
| 18 Gennaio |
S. Antonio Abate |
"The church stands on a square which is so large that,
normally, it looks empty, but today it is full of life. Horses and
mules, their manes and tails gorgeously braided with ribbons, are
led up to a small chapel, detached from the church proper, and a
priest, armed with an enormous brush, sprinkles them with holy water
from tubs and buckets in front of him. He does this generously,
vigorously and even facetiously so as to excite them... Donkeys and
horned cattle also get their modest share of blessing." |
| 19 Gennaio |
Palazzi di Campidoglio |
- |
| 20 Gennaio |
Spedale di
S. Spirito in Sassia |
- |
| January 25, 1787 |
SS. Trinità de' Monti |
- |
| February 16, 1787 |
S. Onofrio |
- |
| February 19, 1787 |
Villa
Medici |
Goethe left Rome on February 22, 1787. He spent in Naples and
Sicily the next four months. |
Secondo soggiorno (Giugno 1787 -
Aprile 1788)
27 Giugno 1787
|
Palazzo
Corsini |
- |
June 29, 1787
|
Castel S. Angelo |
- |
July 5, 1787
|
Fontana
dell'Acqua Acetosa |
- |
July 9, 1787
|
S. Maria di Aracoeli |
- |
July 15, 1787
|
Farnesina |
- |
July 16, 1787
|
Mausoleo
d'Augusto |
- |
July 22, 1787
|
Palazzo Barberini |
- |
July 23, 1787
|
Colonna
Trajana |
"In the evening I climbed the column of Trajan. Seen from
that height and at sunset, the Colosseum, with the Capitol close by,
the Palatine behind and the city all around, it was a superb
sight." |
July 24, 1787
|
Villa
Patrizi
Colonna
Antonina |
- |
July 25, 1787
|
Palazzo
Piombino |
- |
July 29, 1787
|
Palazzo
Rondanini |
- |
August 1, 1787
|
SS. Trinità
de' Monti |
- |
August 18, 1787
|
Fontana
dell'Acqua Acetosa
Campidoglio (from the
Forum)
Villa
Aldobrandini |
- |
August 28, 1787
|
Accademia di
Francia |
- |
September 3, 1787
|
Obelisco di
Augusta |
- |
September 1787 (summary)
|
Giardini del
Palatino
Piazza di
Montecitorio |
- |
November 1787 (summary)
|
Porto di
Ripetta |
Goethe spent several weeks in Frascati and Castel
Gandolfo |
December 1787 (summary)
|
S. Paolo alle
Tre Fontane
Circo di Caracalla
Terme di
Caracalla (Antoniniane)
Acqua Paola and S.
Pietro in Montorio
S. Maria della
Pace
Basilica di S.
Pietro
Villa Borghese
|
(Acqua Paola)"The lovers of architecture among us extolled
the happy thought which had provided this water with a free,
triumphal entry open to all. The columns, arches, cornices and
pediments reminded us of those sumptuous arches through which, in
times past, returning conquerors used to enter in triumph. In this
case, it is the most peaceful of benefactors that enters with a like
power and is received with immediate gratitude and admiration for
its long and strenuous march." |
History of S. Filippo Neri
|
S.
Onofrio
S.
Girolamo della Carità
S. Maria in
Vallicella (Chiesa Nuova)
Piazza
Navona
Terme
di Caracalla (Antoniniane)
|
- |
Accademia dell'Arcadia
|
Bosco
Parrasio |
"... in 1690 a number of far-sighted and determined men
banded together to discuss the possibilities of a reform (of
poetry). In order not to draw attention to their meetings and
provoke a counter-reaction, they used to assemble out of doors in
those secluded gardens, of which so many can be found within the
walls of Rome itself. There, close to Nature and breathing the fresh
air, they could divine the primordial spirit of poetry. (..) Perhaps
one of them exclaimed in rapture: "Here is our Arcadia", thus giving
an apt name to a society of this idyllic character." |
Description of the Roman Carnival
|
Piazza del
Popolo
Piazza
di Venezia
Palazzo di
Venezia
Palazzo
Ruspoli
S.
Carlo al Corso
Piazza
Colonna
Obelisco della Trinità
de' Monti
Accademia di
Francia
Via
del Babuino, Piazza di Spagna e Teatro d'Alibert
Teatro
Argentina
Teatro
Capranica
Teatro Valle
Teatro Tordinona
Teatro
Pace
|
"The Roman Carnival is not really a festival given for
the people but one the people give themselves... unlike the
religious festivals in Rome, the Carnival does not dazzle the eye:
there are no fireworks, no illuminations, no brilliant processions.
All that happens is that, at a given signal, everyone has leave to
be as mad and foolish as he likes, and almost everything, except
fisticuffs and stabbing, is permissible.
The difference between
the social orders seems to be abolished for the time being; everyone
accosts everyone else, all good-naturedly accept whatever happens to
them, and the insolence and licence of the feast is balanced only by
the universal good humour.
During this time, even to this day,
the Roman rejoices because, though it postponed the festival of the
Saturnalia with its liberties for a few weeks, the birth of Christ
did not succeed in abolishing it." |
February 1788 (summary)
|
Piazza di
Venezia
Palazzo di
Campidoglio
Arco di Settimio
Severo
Campo
Vaccino e Arco di Tito
Tempio di Minerva
Tempio della
Pace |
- |
March 1, 1788
|
Galleria
Borghese |
- |
7 Marzo 1788
|
Campidoglio
S. Carlo al
Corso
Accademia
di S. Luca
Basilica di S.
Pietro |
- |
14 Marzo 1788
|
Casina di
Raffaello (Villa Borghese)
Villa Albani
|
- |
Marzo 1788 (summary)
|
Basilica di
S. Pietro
S. Maria
Maggiore
S.
Lorenzo fuori le Mura
S. Sebastiano
S.
Giovanni in Laterano
S. Croce in
Gerusalemme
S. Paolo fuori le
Mura
Porta S.
Paolo
Villa
Mattei |
The list of the seven basilicas is
part of a description
of the Holy Week's rites. |
11 Aprile 1788
|
Accademia di Francia |
- |
Aprile 1788 (summary)
|
Cloaca
Massima
Catacombe di S.
Sebastiano
Accademia
di S. Luca
Porto di
Ripetta |
- |
Aprile 1788 (addio a Roma)
|
Campidoglio
Arco di Settimio Severo
Colosseo |
"My farewell to Rome was heralded in a particularly solemn
manner: for three consecutive nights a full moon stood in a
cloudless sky, diffusing its magic over the immense city, and more
than ever before, I felt myself transported into another simpler and
greater world.
At the end of each day, spent in distractions
mingled with sadness, I took a walk with a few friends, and on one
evening I went out quite alone. After having wandered along the
Corso - perhaps for the last time - I walked up to the Capitol,
which rose like an enchanted palace in the desert. The statue of
Marcus Aurelius reminded me of the Commendatore in Don
Giovanni, for it seemed to be intimating to the wanderer that he
was venturing upon something unusual. Nevertheless I walked down by
the stairs at the back. There I was suddenly confronted by the dark
triumphal arch of Septimius Severus, which cast a still darker
shadow. In the solitude of the Via Sacra the well-known objects
seemed alien and ghost-like. But when I approached the grand ruins
of the Colosseum and looked through the gate into the interior, I
must frankly confess that a shudder ran through me, and I quickly
returned home." |
Forse t'interessa seguire le orme di un altro scrittore tedesco e
passeggiare nelle campagne romane con Ferdinand Gregorovius. |